Hips and Ridges: Completing Your Roof with Style and Functionality

The hips and ridges of a roof are more than just where two roof planes meet; they are critical areas that demand careful attention to ensure both weather protection and aesthetic appeal. A properly finished hip and ridge not only enhances the roof’s overall look but also provides a secure, weathertight seal against the elements. This blog post will guide you through the process of correctly finishing hips and ridges, using either individual shingles or ready-cut hip and ridge shingles, to achieve a roof that is both stylish and functional.

Understanding Hips and Ridges

  • A hip is the external angle formed where two sloping roof planes intersect, running from the ridge down to the eaves.
  • A ridge is the highest point of the roof, typically running horizontally along the roof’s peak.

Materials for Finishing Hips and Ridges

  • Individual Shingles: These are typically cut from three-tab strip shingles. For example, you can cut down 12- × 36-inch three-tab shingles into 12 × 12 inches pieces or use a minimum of 9 × 12 inches on two-tab or no-cutout asphalt shingles.
  • Ready-Cut Hip and Ridge Shingles: Many shingle manufacturers supply ready-cut hip and ridge shingles, specifically designed for this purpose. These often provide a better match to the field shingles and ease installation.

Preparing for Installation

  1. Apply Field Shingles: Before finishing the hips and ridges, make sure you have applied all the field shingles up to the hip or ridge. Adjust the last few courses of shingles so that the ridge capping will adequately cover the top courses equally on both sides of the ridge.
  2. Remove Old Materials: If you’re reroofing, remove the old hip and ridge shingles to ensure a level application and better fastener anchorage.
  3. Underlayment: Apply a strip of 15-pound roofing felt, at least 8 inches wide, over the crown of all hips and ridges.

Installation Process

  1. Shingle Preparation:
    • For individual shingles, taper the headlap portion of each cap shingle slightly narrower than the exposed portion to produce a neater appearance.
    • In cold weather, warm the shingles until pliable before bending to avoid cracking.
  2. Alignment:
    • Bend each shingle along its centerline so it extends equally on each side of the hip or ridge.
    • Use chalk lines to assist in proper alignment.
  3. Shingle Application:
    • Apply the shingles with a 5-inch exposure, beginning at the bottom of the hip or from the end of the ridge opposite the direction of the prevailing winds.
    • For ridges terminating in a gable end, start laying the cap at each end so that it meets in the middle of the ridge.
  4. Fastening:
    • Secure each shingle with one fastener on each side, placed 5½ inches back from the exposed end and 1 inch up from the edge.
    • The fastener length for hip and ridge shingles should be ¼ inch longer than recommended for the field shingles.
    • Ensure that nails are long enough to penetrate at least ½ inch into the underlying sheathing.
  5. Increased Wind Resistance:
    • In high-wind areas, use self-sealing shingles that incorporate a factory-applied adhesive or cement the tabs of free-tab shingles to the underlying course.
    • To cement a free-tab shingle, apply two quarter-sized spots of asphalt plastic cement under each tab and press the tab into the adhesive.

Finishing Touches

  • Where two hips meet the ridge, face nailing of the ridge cap may be required to hold the hip and ridge shingles in place.
  • If face nailing, set the ridge shingle in asphalt roofing cement before nailing it in place and cover the nail heads with a small spot of asphalt roof cement and granules.

Special Situations

  • Saddle Ridges: Extend regular slates to the ridge so that pieces of slate on the opposite side of the roof butt flush. Lay another course of slate, called combing slate, on top of the last regular course of roofing slate at the ridge and butt flush pieces of slate on opposite sides of the roof.
  • Mitred Hips: Cut the hip slates accurately to form tight joints and fill the joint with elastic cement. Place the nail holes so they come under the succeeding hip slate.
  • Boston Hips: Weave the slates in with the regular courses of the roofing slates. Cover the nails with elastic or plastic cement and embed the lower part of the succeeding slate therein.

Style and Aesthetics

  • Consider using specialty, decorative hip and ridge laminated shingles for an added aesthetic feature.
  • For a unique look with wooden shingles and shakes, select uniform shakes for the final course at the ridge line.

Conclusion

Properly finishing the hips and ridges is essential for a roof’s integrity and appearance. Whether you opt for individual shingles or ready-cut options, following these steps will ensure a durable, weathertight, and aesthetically pleasing finish that complements your entire roofing system. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for specific product guidelines and best practices.

 

hip and ridges roof example
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